How to Install Mass Loaded Vinyl in Stud Walls: Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Installing mass loaded vinyl (MLV) in stud walls is one of the most effective ways to achieve high-performance soundproofing in residential and commercial buildings. When installed correctly, MLV can help you meet or exceed UK Building Regulations Part E requirements while providing noticeable noise reduction.

This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know: tools, materials, preparation, installation techniques, common mistakes, and Building Regulations compliance.

What You'll Achieve

A correctly installed MLV stud wall system typically delivers:

• Airborne sound insulation: 48-58 dB DnT,w (depending on MLV density and system design)
• Building Regulations Part E compliance: Exceeds 45 dB minimum requirement
• Noticeable noise reduction: 15-25 dB improvement over standard stud walls
• Long-term performance: 50+ year lifespan with no degradation

Understanding MLV in Stud Wall Systems

How MLV Works in Stud Walls

Mass loaded vinyl functions as a limp mass barrier within the stud wall cavity. Unlike rigid materials that can resonate and transmit sound, MLV's flexible, dense composition absorbs sound energy and prevents it from passing through.

The acoustic principle:

1. Sound waves hit the first plasterboard layer
2. Waves travel through the cavity (filled with absorption material)
3. MLV blocks transmission due to its high mass (5kg/m² or 10kg/m²)
4. Remaining energy is absorbed by mineral wool
5. Final plasterboard layer provides additional mass

Stud Wall System Components

A high-performance soundproof stud wall consists of:

Tools and Materials Required

Essential Tools

• Tape measure and pencil
• Spirit level
• Utility knife with sharp blades (replace frequently)
• Straight edge or T-square (for cutting MLV)
• Staple gun and 10mm staples
• Acoustic adhesive gun
• Caulking gun (for acoustic sealant)
• Drill/driver
• Plasterboard saw or jigsaw
• Safety equipment (gloves, dust mask, safety glasses)

Materials Checklist

For a typical 3m x 2.4m stud wall:

• MLV: 8-9 m² (allow 10% wastage)
  • Option 1: SilentCloud 5kg MLV - 7-8 packs
  • Option 2: SilentCloud 10kg MLV - 3-4 packs
• Studs: 75mm or 100mm timber (C16 grade) or metal studs (0.5mm gauge minimum)
• Acoustic mineral wool: 60-100mm thickness, 40-60 kg/m³ density
• Plasterboard: 12.5mm or 15mm (acoustic grade recommended)
• Acoustic sealant: 2-3 tubes per wall
• Acoustic adhesive: 2-3 tubes per wall
• Acoustic tape: 1 roll (50mm width)
• Screws: Plasterboard screws (32mm for 12.5mm board)
• Resilient bars (optional, for enhanced performance)

Pre-Installation Planning

1. Assess Your Noise Problem

Before installation, identify:

• Noise type: Airborne (voices, TV, music) or impact (footsteps, vibrations)
• Noise source: Adjacent room, external traffic, commercial space
• Target performance: Part E minimum (45 dB) or higher performance (50-55 dB)

MLV is most effective against airborne noise. For impact noise, combine with resilient systems.

2. Choose MLV Density

5kg/m² MLV:

• Suitable for residential party walls
• Achieves Part E compliance (48-52 dB)
• Easier to handle and install
• Cost-effective

10kg/m² MLV:

• High-performance applications (studios, cinemas)
• Exceeds Part E (54-58 dB)
• Better low-frequency performance
• Heavier, requires careful handling

Read our comparison guide: 5kg vs 10kg MLV

3. Design Your Stud Wall System

Standard system (Part E compliant):

• 12.5mm plasterboard
• 100mm metal/timber studs @ 600mm centres
• 100mm acoustic mineral wool (60 kg/m³)
• 5kg MLV
• 12.5mm plasterboard
• Expected performance: 48-52 dB DnT,w

High-performance system:

• 15mm acoustic plasterboard
• 100mm metal studs @ 600mm centres
• 100mm acoustic mineral wool (60 kg/m³)
• 10kg MLV
• 15mm acoustic plasterboard
• Expected performance: 54-58 dB DnT,w

Enhanced system (maximum performance):

• 2 x 12.5mm plasterboard (staggered joints)
• 100mm metal studs @ 600mm centres
• 100mm acoustic mineral wool
• 10kg MLV
• Resilient bars
• 2 x 12.5mm plasterboard
• Expected performance: 58-62 dB DnT,w

4. Check Building Regulations

Part E requirements (England & Wales):

• New builds and conversions: Minimum 45 dB DnT,w for walls
• Pre-completion testing may be required
• Consider using Robust Details for pre-approved systems

Scotland (Section 5): Similar requirements, 56 dB for flats
Northern Ireland (Part G): 45 dB minimum

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Prepare the Work Area

1. Clear the space: Remove furniture, cover floors with dust sheets
2. Mark stud positions: Use chalk line to mark floor and ceiling positions
3. Check for services: Identify electrical cables, pipes, and avoid penetrations
4. Ensure clean surfaces: Remove dust, debris, and old fixings

Step 2: Build the Stud Frame

For timber studs:

1. Cut top and bottom plates to wall length
2. Mark stud positions at 600mm centres
3. Fix bottom plate to floor (use resilient tape for decoupling if required)
4. Fix top plate to ceiling
5. Install vertical studs, ensuring plumb with spirit level
6. Add noggins (horizontal bracing) at mid-height

For metal studs:

1. Fix floor and ceiling tracks
2. Insert vertical studs at 600mm centres
3. Ensure studs are vertical and secure
4. Add horizontal noggins where required (around openings, mid-height)

Critical tip: Avoid rigid connections between stud frame and adjacent walls. Use resilient tape or leave a 5mm gap filled with acoustic sealant to prevent flanking transmission.

Step 3: Install First Layer of Plasterboard

1. Measure and cut plasterboard to fit stud frame
2. Fix plasterboard to one side of studs using 32mm screws at 300mm centres
3. Stagger joints - avoid continuous vertical joints
4. Leave 5mm gap at floor and ceiling (fill with acoustic sealant later)
5. Cut openings for electrical boxes, switches (seal around penetrations)

Why install plasterboard first? This creates a clean, flat surface for MLV installation and provides structural rigidity to the stud frame.

Step 4: Fill Cavity with Acoustic Mineral Wool

1. Measure cavity depth (typically 75-100mm)
2. Cut mineral wool to fit snugly between studs
3. Friction-fit wool - it should stay in place without fixings
4. Fill entire cavity - no gaps or voids
5. Cut around electrical boxes and services
6. Avoid compression - compressed mineral wool loses absorption performance

Recommended products:

• Rockwool RW3 (60 kg/m³)
• Knauf Earthwool (40-60 kg/m³)
• Superglass Multi-Roll (45 kg/m³)

Safety: Wear gloves, dust mask, and long sleeves when handling mineral wool.

Step 5: Install Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)

This is the critical step. Proper MLV installation determines the success of your soundproofing.

5a. Measure and Cut MLV

1. Measure wall height from floor to ceiling
2. Add 50mm overlap at top and bottom
3. Cut MLV sheets using sharp utility knife and straight edge
4. Plan layout to minimize joints (vertical joints are acceptable, horizontal joints should be avoided where possible)

Cutting tips:

• Use a fresh blade - MLV is dense and dulls blades quickly
• Cut on a clean, flat surface (old plasterboard works well)
• Score deeply on first pass, then complete cut on second pass
• For 10kg MLV, use heavy-duty shears for easier cutting

5b. Apply Acoustic Adhesive

1. Apply adhesive to the plasterboard surface in a zigzag pattern (300mm spacing)
2. Apply adhesive around perimeter (continuous bead)
3. Work in sections - adhesive has ~15 minute open time

Recommended adhesives:

• Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound
• Acoustic sealant/adhesive (e.g., Soudal Fix All)
• Heavy-duty construction adhesive

5c. Position and Fix MLV

1. Start at one corner (top or bottom)
2. Unroll MLV vertically down the wall
3. Press firmly into adhesive, working from centre outwards to avoid air pockets
4. Staple MLV at top edge (temporary fixing, 300mm spacing)
5. Smooth out wrinkles - MLV should be flat but not stretched tight
6. Staple around perimeter every 200-300mm

For 10kg MLV (heavier):

• Use two people for large sheets
• Add mechanical fixings (screws with large washers) every 600mm for vertical applications
• Support MLV during adhesive curing (24 hours)

5d. Seal Joints and Edges

This is critical for performance. Unsealed gaps allow sound flanking and reduce effectiveness by 30-50%.

1. Overlap vertical joints by 100mm minimum
2. Seal joints with 50mm acoustic tape
3. Seal perimeter edges with acoustic sealant (continuous bead)
4. Seal around penetrations (electrical boxes, pipes, switches)
5. Seal floor and ceiling junctions completely

Critical rule: Every gap, joint, and penetration must be sealed. Sound will find the path of least resistance.

Step 6: Install Final Layer of Plasterboard

1. Measure and cut plasterboard for final layer
2. Stagger joints from first plasterboard layer
3. Fix to studs using 32mm screws at 300mm centres
4. Avoid over-tightening screws (don't break paper face)
5. Leave 5mm gap at floor and ceiling

For enhanced performance: Install two layers of plasterboard with staggered joints for additional mass.

Step 7: Seal All Gaps and Finish

1. Apply acoustic sealant to all perimeter gaps (floor, ceiling, adjacent walls)
2. Seal around electrical boxes and switch plates
3. Fill screw holes with jointing compound
4. Tape and joint plasterboard as normal
5. Apply finish (skim plaster, paint, wallpaper)

Important: Use acoustic sealant (flexible, non-hardening) rather than standard decorators' caulk. Acoustic sealant maintains flexibility and prevents sound transmission through gaps.

Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake 1: Not Sealing Edges and Joints

Impact: Reduces performance by 30-50%
Solution: Seal every gap, joint, and penetration with acoustic sealant or tape

Mistake 2: Compressing Mineral Wool

Impact: Reduces absorption performance
Solution: Cut mineral wool to fit snugly but not compressed

Mistake 3: Rigid Connections to Adjacent Structures

Impact: Sound flanking through rigid connections
Solution: Use resilient tape or leave 5mm gap at junctions, fill with acoustic sealant

Mistake 4: Using Dull Blades to Cut MLV

Impact: Ragged cuts, difficult installation
Solution: Replace utility knife blades frequently (every 2-3 cuts for 10kg MLV)

Mistake 5: Not Supporting Heavy MLV During Installation

Impact: MLV sags, adhesive fails, poor contact
Solution: Use temporary fixings (staples, screws with washers) and allow adhesive to cure

Mistake 6: Installing MLV on Wrong Side of Studs

Impact: Reduced performance
Solution: Install MLV between first plasterboard layer and studs, not between studs and final plasterboard

Mistake 7: Leaving Horizontal Joints in MLV

Impact: Potential weak points for sound transmission
Solution: Plan layout to use full-height sheets where possible, overlap and seal any horizontal joints by 150mm minimum

Building Regulations Compliance Checklist

To ensure your MLV stud wall meets Part E requirements:

• ✓ Use minimum 5kg/m² MLV (10kg/m² for high performance)
• ✓ Fill entire cavity with acoustic mineral wool (60 kg/m³ minimum)
• ✓ Use minimum 12.5mm plasterboard both sides
• ✓ Seal all perimeter edges with acoustic sealant
• ✓ Seal all penetrations (electrical boxes, pipes)
• ✓ Avoid rigid connections to adjacent structures
• ✓ Use 100mm minimum stud depth for Part E compliance
• ✓ Consider pre-completion acoustic testing
• ✓ Document installation for Building Control

Expected performance:

• 5kg MLV system: 48-52 dB DnT,w (meets Part E 45 dB minimum)
• 10kg MLV system: 54-58 dB DnT,w (exceeds Part E)

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Issue: MLV Won't Stick to Plasterboard

Causes: Dusty surface, insufficient adhesive, wrong adhesive type
Solutions:

• Clean plasterboard surface before applying adhesive
• Use acoustic-specific adhesive (Green Glue, Soudal Fix All)
• Apply more adhesive (zigzag pattern at 300mm spacing)
• Add mechanical fixings (staples, screws with washers)

Issue: MLV Has Wrinkles or Air Pockets

Causes: Insufficient pressing, stretched too tight, uneven adhesive
Solutions:

• Work from centre outwards when pressing MLV
• Don't stretch MLV tight - it should be flat but relaxed
• Use roller or hand pressure to eliminate air pockets
• Small wrinkles are acceptable and won't affect performance

Issue: Joints Not Sealing Properly

Causes: Insufficient overlap, wrong tape, dirty surfaces
Solutions:

• Overlap joints by minimum 100mm
• Use 50mm acoustic tape specifically designed for MLV
• Clean MLV surface before applying tape
• Press tape firmly along entire length

Maintenance and Long-Term Performance

Once installed, MLV requires no maintenance and will perform for 50+ years. However:

• Avoid penetrations: Every hole reduces performance. If you must add electrical boxes or fixtures, seal thoroughly with acoustic sealant
• Maintain seals: Check perimeter seals annually, especially in high-vibration environments
• Document installation: Keep photos and specifications for future renovations
• Test performance: Consider acoustic testing after installation to verify Part E compliance

Cost Breakdown: Typical 3m x 2.4m Party Wall

DIY savings: £400-600 per wall

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I install MLV myself or do I need a professional?
A: MLV installation is suitable for competent DIYers with basic carpentry skills. The key is attention to detail, especially sealing. For Building Regulations compliance, consider hiring an acoustic consultant to verify the design.

Q: How long does MLV installation take?
A: For a typical 3m x 2.4m party wall, expect 1-2 days for a competent DIYer, or 1 day for professionals. Allow extra time for adhesive curing (24 hours) before final plasterboard installation.

Q: Do I need to install MLV on both sides of the stud wall?
A: No. Installing MLV on one side is sufficient for Part E compliance. Installing on both sides provides marginal improvement (2-3 dB) but doubles material cost.

Q: Can I use MLV in existing stud walls without removing plasterboard?
A: Not effectively. MLV must be installed within the wall cavity for optimal performance. Applying MLV to the surface and covering with new plasterboard provides only 3-8 dB improvement.

Q: What's the difference between acoustic plasterboard and standard plasterboard?
A: Acoustic plasterboard is denser (higher mass) and provides 2-4 dB better performance than standard plasterboard. It's worth the extra cost for high-performance applications but not essential for Part E compliance.

Q: Can I install electrical boxes in an MLV stud wall?
A: Yes, but minimize penetrations and seal thoroughly. Use back-to-back boxes (one on each side of the wall) rather than shared boxes. Seal around boxes with acoustic sealant and use acoustic putty pads behind faceplates.

Conclusion

Installing mass loaded vinyl in stud walls is a proven method for achieving excellent soundproofing and Building Regulations Part E compliance. Success depends on:

• Proper system design - choosing the right MLV density and complementary materials
• Attention to detail - sealing every gap, joint, and penetration
• Quality materials - using acoustic-specific products rather than general building materials
• Correct installation sequence - following the steps in order

Whether you're soundproofing a party wall in a terraced house, building a home studio, or upgrading a flat conversion, MLV in stud walls delivers reliable, long-lasting noise reduction.

Ready to Start Your Project?

• SilentCloud 5kg MLV - Ideal for residential party walls and Part E compliance
• SilentCloud 10kg MLV - Maximum performance for studios and high-noise environments
• Complete Stud Wall Systems - Everything you need in one place

Need expert advice? Contact our acoustic specialists for free project guidance, Part E compliance support, and product recommendations tailored to your specific requirements.